I grew up in San Pedro, Belize. In my lifetime I’ve watched a once sleepy fishing village transform into a lively tourist destination. But San Pedro has not lost its charm. You’ll still encounter the friendliest locals anywhere. Best of all, everyone speaks English! On a recent trip home, I explored Belize as I hadn’t in years, and this is my unofficial must-do guide for an authentic Belizean experience.

Where to stay

Ambergris Caye is an island in the north of Belize that was divided into two during a hurricane. A bridge connects the southern town of San Pedro to the north side of the island. Whether you’re looking for a resort, hotel or Airbnb, you can find it in San Pedro or up north. While I haven’t listed any specific rental by owner properties here, anything near the beach with good reviews is sure to please. Because the southern portion of the island features the town, this is where you’ll find most restaurants and activities. Up north, lodgings are more secluded and quieter. If you plan to rent a golf cart, which I highly recommend, moving around the island is easy no matter where you choose to stay.

San Pedro and southern Ambergris Caye

Victoria House
This is my favorite resort on the island. It is located on the beach, slightly south of the town of San Pedro. The property is rich with palm trees, beautifully manicured lawns, and sand beaches. The white colonial-style buildings at once stand out and mesh seamlessly with the natural environment. The resort offers rooms and units of a variety of sizes and price points. There is a spa, multiple pools, bar, and delicious restaurant on the premises.

The Phoenix
This is a great option if you’d like to be in the center of town. The resort does a fantastic job of feeling secluded while sitting at the center of the hustle and bustle. All of The Phoenix’s units are condos, making it the perfect option if you’re traveling in a large group or enjoy having a full kitchen at your disposal. The resort offers a restaurant, pool, and gym. Don’t miss out on a treatment at the incredible Sol Spa!

Northern Ambergris Caye

Tuto Belize
The northern portion of Ambergris Caye is lined with large beachfront resorts for 8 miles, with many fantastic options, but, if you’re looking for a truly secluded experience, you cannot beat Tuto. Four little casitas sit on over 2,000 feet of manicured beachfront property, where you’ll feel as if you’ve escaped the entire world to the most private and tranquil of locales. The casitas offer modern amenities and the friendly staff is always available. Tuto is an ideal choice for honeymooners or solo travelers in search of tranquil Caribbean perfection. In a 20 minute ferryboat ride, you can return to the buzzing San Pedro town.

My favorite restaurants

Palmilla Restaurant
This restaurant, located at the Victoria House resort, is my favorite on the island. Palmilla offers indoor and beachside dining options and a constantly evolving menu, featuring local seafood and produce. The menu includes Belizean classics like ceviche alongside international fare. Dessert is always a must. This is one of the nicer restaurants on the island and definitely worth visiting for a celebration or last night fête.

Blue Water Grill
A San Pedro classic. This restaurant sit on an open-air beachfront veranda at the center of town. It is frequented by tourists and locals alike for its friendly staff, diverse menu, and ease of access from town. It’s been open for two decades, and although it’s recently changed management, it remains a stalwart for San Pedro dining. Visit for lunch or dinner, and be sure to sample the coconut shrimp sticks.

El Fogon
If you’re looking for no-nonsense, authentic Belizean dishes, El Fogon tops the list. It’s a family-owned business, run by local San Pedranos. The word “fogon” is Mayan for fire hearth, and this restaurant utilizes one for many of its dishes. Because the restaurant is not air conditioned or on the beach, it can be hot in the daytime. It’s perfect for an early evening truly Belizean experience.

Elvi’s
Another San Pedro classic, this restaurant has been in operation for over 50 years. A family business from owner to chef and management, Elvi’s features a multitude of Belizean dishes. In my family, this is a favorite lunch spot for fish burgers and people watching.

Estel’s Dine by the Sea
This is a casual beachfront establishment best known for its breakfast. The menu is written on a board with chalk and the floors are sand. There are a variety of Belizean breakfast options that are sure to fill you up for a full day of activities. Don’t leave without trying the fry jacks!

A few foods central to Belizean culture, that can’t be missed:

• Fry Jacks: a fried dough that puffs in the center and can be stuffed with sweet or savory fillings.
• Meat Pies: a relic from the British, these small pies are filled with beef and sauce, typically eaten for breakfast or lunch.
• Stewed Chicken, rice, and beans: This is the national dish. Most Belizeans will eat this a few times a week for lunch or dinner.
• Ceviche: conch or shrimp cured in lime juice, served with a pico de gallo and tortilla chips, this is a fresh and delicious Belizean classic.
• Belikin: the beer of Belize.

Activities

Whether you’d like to dive everyday, fly fish, or hike a Mayan ruin, Belize has it for you. Contact local tour companies for a complete list of tour options. Below are my can’t-miss favorites.
Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley: A boat trip to this national marine reserve includes two snorkels. First you’ll snorkel through a channel that welcomes a vast array of sea life. Next you’ll be ushered to a site where nurse sharks and rays feed, and you’ll have the chance to swim among them. Toothless and harmless, nurse sharks are gentile creatures to swim among. This day trip is offered by most tour companies. If you do one trip, this should be it.
Mayan Ruins: Belize has many Mayan ruins throughout the mainland that were once home to a robust Maya population. From Ambergris Caye, you can travel by boat or plane for a day trip to the temple of your choosing. These trips vary in time, activities, and price. Select one that best fits your trip, to experience history, culture, and mainland Belize.
Caye Caulker: ‘Go Slow’ is this island’s motto, and the locals live by it. A 20-minute ferry ride from San Pedro, Caye Caulker is a smaller, quieter island that is well worth a day trip. Frequented by backpackers, this island doesn’t have as many amenities as Ambergris Caye, but it sure makes up for it in personality. Caye Caulker’s atmosphere is more relaxed, and if you’re looking for a lazy day at the beach, this island is ideal. Make sure to visit ‘the split,’ where a bar sits at the water’s edge, beach chairs abound, and swimmers leap from a raised board. Order the Lizard Juice.

Belize is a country like no other. At once Central American and Caribbean, Belize’s culture is diverse and rich. From the Maya to Mestizo and Garifuna and everything in between, Belize is a melting pot of culture. The people are kind and friendly, and Belize’s magic is that even tourists feel at home after one trip. Have you been to Belize? Let me know what you thought in the comments!

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